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In Asia with kids

Nepal with Kids: A Culture Cradled in the Himalayas

January 26, 2018 No Comments

Experience traditional Nepalese activities with your family!

Nepal is a mystical country encircled by glacier-encrusted Himalayan Mountains to the north and lush tropical lowlands to the south. From tasty local fare to effervescent lunar festivals, the Nepalese have a multitude of cultural traditions that your family can experience. One unique aspect of Nepal is how minute it is compared to massive neighboring countries like China and India. Families exploring Nepal will be able to soak in a wealth of cultural and ecological diversity, but won’t have to devastate their travel budget on intra-national airfare and waste precious moments on everlasting bus rides. Moreover, Nepal’s physical position between China, a predominantly Buddhist nation; Tibet, a locale with an esoteric culture now spreading south; and India, a country with a majority of Hindus, creates a vibrant melting pot in the band of land called Nepal. Dive in and enjoy the vast array of traditional Nepalese experiences with your family!

Meditation

Since the Chinese occupation of Tibet began in the 1950s, Nepal has become the home of many Tibetan refugees who practice Buddhism. Thus, although the majority of native Nepalis are Hindu, the country is also a hotspot for Buddhist practitioners. One of the backbones of Buddhism is meditation, so make room for some much-needed quiet time during your exploration in Nepal and cultivate some mindfulness. Mindfulness practices can benefit everyone in your family!

Where to go:

Kathmandu: Kopan Monastery, perched high up on a hill overlooking the bustling Kathmandu valley, specializes in making Buddhism accessible for Westerners. The center educates many aspiring Tibetan monks, but there are also plenty of Western monks and nuns who facilitate affordable Buddhist courses lasting anywhere from a few hours to several months. Check the schedule to see what introspective opportunities are unfolding while you’re in Kathmandu.

Pokhara: The Ganden Yiga Chozin Buddhist Centre offers three-day residential retreats beginning most Fridays as well as daily yoga and meditation classes. Once you have mastered the basics, find a serene spot on the banks of Phewa Lake and get enlightened already!

Dal Bhat

Nepal has one main dish and locals eat it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. “Dal bhat” translates to “lentils and rice,” but the meal often comes with much more than that. Expect fragrant basmati rice, a turmeric-infused lentil soup, spicy pickled mango, a choice of meat (mutton, chicken, or buffalo) for the omnivores, and curried potatoes. Order mild versions to make the meals more kid-friendly. Traditional eateries often serve all-you-can-eat dal bhat, so go hungry. Soon, you’ll recognize the kitschy “Dal Bhat Power 24-Hour” t-shirts around town and actually know what they mean! If your family needs a break from dal bhat, find Indian fare to switch it up.

Where to go:

Kathmandu: The capital is teeming with dal bhat restaurants—you’ll have no trouble finding this dish. Venture outside of Thamel (the touristy hideaway in Kathmandu) to find more authentic versions.

Pokhara: The best dal bhat spots in Pokhara require you to order dinner in the morning, as they spend all day preparing the food. Poke your head into unmarked storefronts around Phewa Lake and see if they offer meals. Not every restaurant is publicized—often the best eateries are the holes-in-the-wall you won’t find online, so go explore! Just make sure you know your order in Nepali.

Holi

Nepalis celebrate so many festivals that it is almost impossible to venture there without coinciding with an extravagant celebration of some sort. Check the lunar calendar for Holi in particular, the Festival of Colors, which marks the beginning of spring and is especially exciting for kids. Sometime in late February or early March, revelers stock up on plastic bags filled with vibrantly-colored powder and promptly empty them on each other. The scene promptly dissolves into people swarming in clouds of indigo, aquamarine, and tangerine clouds accompanied by the latest Bollywood tunes. Do your kids want a superb offensive strategy? Sprinkle some powder into water bottles and douse your targets, and then throw more powder. It’s like tarring and feathering, but with rainbows! Be sure to bring clothes for your family that you don’t mind having involuntarily tie-dyed.

Where to go:

Kathmandu: It is virtually impossible to avoid Holi anywhere in Nepal, but the celebrations in Kathmandu are especially lively. Be sure to stock up on powders, as locals often pursue tourists in particular. Water balloons make for especially lethal artillery—and what children don’t love them?

Pokhara: Find a place to perch somewhere on Lakeside to watch the revelry unfold before you. There are good spots where you can finagle a bird’s-eye view and dump powder on those unsuspecting below!

Life in the Himalayas

Nepal is home to Sagarmatha, meaning “Forehead in the Sky”—but your family might know this famous peak as Mount Everest. As the home of the world’s loftiest peaks, mountaineering and trekking have become embedded in Nepali life. The people who live in the Himalayas are called Sherpas, and most have some Tibetan ancestry. The relaxed pace of life in these mountainous regions starkly contrasts the congestion of cities like Kathmandu. Head to the hills for stunning vistas, belly-warming thukpa (noodle soup—great for kids!), and perhaps even a yeti sighting. Don’t forget a few strands of colorful prayer flags to offer to the mountain spirits for protection as you hike over alpine passes.

Where to go:

Lukla: If you want to skip the first few days of hiking from sub-tropical Shivalaya and beeline it to the Himalayas, catch a cheap flight to Lukla, which will plop your family down right in the midst of the Himalayan foothills. This flight also makes for quite an exciting journey, as the landing strip towers over an immense canyon! From there, you can trek all the way to Mount Everest Base Camp, visiting a collection of Sherpa villages along the way.

Pokhara: The Mountain Man Museum in Pokhara is underwhelming, but it does have some intriguing scientific displays about the receding glaciers in the mountains. Many of the exhibits are kid-friendly, and offer wonderful opportunities to learn about the cultural and geographical history of the region. Pokhara is also jump-off point for most treks in the Annapurna region, which has a plethora of hikes to choose from for all ability levels. Check in with a local tour operator to ask about permits and which route is most appropriate for your family.

Stupas

Another result of the burgeoning Buddhist population in Nepal is the plethora of stupas popping up all over the country. Stupas are religious sites most often shaped like mounds with a tower on top, although they come in many shapes. The most common ones you’ll see around Nepal have a round base topped with a four-sided layer, each side housing a Buddha figure. On top of that structure, thirteen gilded rings form a tall cylinder, which represent the steps on the path to enlightenment. Finally, a small golden umbrella towers over the stupa. Each of these structures is stuffed with holy relics like ashes of venerated monks, scrolls inscribed with sacred mantras, or bits and pieces of the Buddha himself. Stupas are one of the best places to experience culture, as they are often teeming with pilgrims from dawn until dusk. Walk around stupas with your family to gain merit—it is believed that circumambulating these holy spots generates endless good fortune!

Where to go:

Kathmandu: The most awe-inspiring stupas are found in Kathmandu. A favorite is the Boudha stupa, an impending white structure resting on a circular base with countless red, yellow, green, blue, and white prayer flags flying from the gilded umbrella. Don’t miss Swayambunath stupa, also known as the monkey temple, which offers a panoramic view of Kathmandu valley. Your kids can meet hordes of friendly, yet unabashed monkeys on the way—just be careful on the narrow, steep steps to the top.

Goddess Kumari

One of the most peculiar aspects of Nepali culture is the Goddess Kumari, who resides in a temple made of crusty brick and carved wood in Durbar Square in Kathmandu. Hindu priests find each Kumari through a vigorous process that begins when the current goddess begins puberty. Many believe that the Kumari is a human incarnation of the Hindu goddess Durga, so priests hunt for certain physical qualities (black eyes, lithe body), and social qualifications (from a certain caste) which designate the young girl as the next possible living goddess. To confirm that the girl is truly the living version of Durga, she is shut inside a room filled with the heads of sacrificed buffaloes during the Dashain festival. If she remains calm, it is believed that she is truly the Kumari, as it is only the goddess that would be able to retain such serenity in a gory scene. Having one’s daughter indicated as the next Kumari is a high honor, so with the parents’ blessing, the new Kumari is relocated to Durbar Square and undergoes rigorous religious training. She only leaves the temple once a year, when she is carried in a palanquin throughout Durbar Square.

Where to go:

Kathmandu: Visit the home of the living goddess in Durbar Square. If you happen to be in Nepal during Inda Jatra, a festival around September, you might catch a glimpse of the goddess as she travels around Kathmandu for three days during that time. Otherwise, head to her quarters in Kathmandu between 10 AM and noon to catch a glimpse of her from her chambers. Unfortunately, much of the Square is in a state of disrepair due to the earthquakes in 2015; however, there is still plenty of original architecture to enjoy. Hire a guide for your family outside of the square for a few rupees (don’t forget to haggle!) to get the most from your visit.

Gorkhas

Nepal has a rich military tradition of gorkhas (also spelled gurkha). Outfitted in traditional khaki outfits and brandishing the khukuri, their trademark curved knife, gorkhas are a fearsome bunch. These groups originally fought against the British invasions in the 1800s, but now they are recruited by different armies around the world for their expertise in battle. Gorkhas are known for their fearlessness: their motto is “Better to die than be a coward.” There are around 3,500 gorkhas serving in armed forces today, and battalions now belong to the British and Indian armies. Take time to learn about these warriors if your family is interested in military and political history.

Where to go:

Kathmandu: Why not make your own khukuri in true gorkha style? Although originally utilized in battle, many Nepalis now use this famous curved knife for chopping wood and digging. For $29 USD, you and your children can join a khukuri workshop through Backstreet Academy in Kathmandu and fashion your own gorkha souvenir. Just be sure to put it in your checked luggage on the way home!

Pokhara: Visit the Gorkha Memorial Museum for a heaping dose of gorkha history and paraphernalia, from photographs exhibits to uniform displays. Admission is $2 USD for adults and $1 USD for children.

In Routs For Nature Loving Families

Nepal With Kids: 30-Day Itinerary for Nature-Loving Families

November 8, 2017 No Comments

Famous for its sky-skimming mountains and tough trekking, Nepal isn’t usually the first name that comes to mind when it comes to planning vacations with the kids; however, active families will find an awful lot to love about this this mystical country! Aside from some of the best hiking opportunities on the planet (with options for every level–nobody’s suggesting that families in Nepal should be scaling Everest), visitors can visit National Parks where big cats prowl, see perfectly-preserved ancient kingdoms, marvel at magnificent temples, and camp out at hilltop lodges with views to thrill even the most cynical of older kids and teens.

Our 30-day Nepal Itinerary takes in the best natural attractions and outdoor experiences that a family trip to Nepal can offer, while also taking in the big cities and leaving time to enjoy the experience. Families coming to Nepal should be aware that the best-laid travel plans often go awry, so it pays to be flexible with timings in order to avoid soaring stress levels.

? Box out: Plan for Weather

The weather can have a big impact on your family trip to Nepal. The best trekking conditions are found from September-December and March-May: think clear skies, cool nights, and warm days. From December through February nights are cold, especially at altitude, and summertime offers heavy rainfall and limited visibility. Strong sunscreen is a must at any time of year, especially for young children.

Days 1-7: Kathmandu and Surrounding Area

Kids on a trip to Kathmandu tend to take great delight in the fact that cows have right of way here, and cattle stroll at a leisurely pace through this hot and hectic city. Take a day or so to recover from the flight and just adapt to the way of life here, riding rickshaws, goggling at the ornate temples and generally soaking up the fascinating street scene.

? Tip: It’s not uncommon for tummy trouble to impact on a family visit to Nepal. Use hand sanitizers, wipe little hands carefully, and use straws rather than drinking directly from cans. Street food can be a large part of the fun, but exercise caution and, if in doubt, seek recommendations from fellow travelers and/or hotel or hostel staff about places (or foods) to avoid.

Nature-loving families in Kathmandu should be sure to visit Swayambhunath (better known as Monkey Temple), a magnificent temple sitting pretty on a hilltop where the fresh air is welcome contrast to the pollution of the city. The biggest attraction for kids are the holy monkeys that keep watch over the entrance, giving the temple its nickname. Next, visit the Hindu temple Pashupatinath, with its robed, dreadlocked and painted saddhus (holy men) flanking temple courtyards. Families should also check out the ancient city of Bhaktapur, a 40-minute drive from the city center (and a UNESCO World Heritage Site). Bhaktapur hosts its own resident Kumari, a child who assumes the role of Living Goddess (there’s also a Kumari in Durbar Square in Kathmandu). Rattling through the streets of Kathmandu on a rickshaw is a fun introduction to Nepal, and the surrounding Kathmandu Valley is strewn with temples and a good place for short treks (ranging from half a day to several days), and family accommodation in Kathmandu is both plentiful and affordable.

? Tip: It’s perhaps the ultimate hack for families hiking in Nepal: “baby porters” will carry young children and babies in wicker baskets, allowing parents to keep their hands free and stride on with confidence. Intrepid families can bed down in stone lodges, which are found along most established trekking routes. It makes sense to limit the duration of these treks to a day or so, though, as all but the most patient of small children will soon want to stretch their own legs.

Day 8-14: Sagarmatha National Park

It’s remote, but for the maximum bragging rights, your family trip to Nepal needs to include a stay at Sagarmatha National Park, home to the most famous mountain in the world: Mount Everest. Officially the highest national park in the world, most of the terrain is more than 3,000 meters above sea level. At around 135 kilometers from Kathmandu, the best way for families to arrive is by organized excursion. Prices from around $50 USD include transport only, and expect to pay more for accommodation, food and activities. Accommodations range from mountain lodges and rustic campsites to slightly more luxurious options, and there are even family-oriented treks up to the legendary Everest Base Camp. Of course, it’s vital to research any trekking companies in advance, and make sure it’s not too taxing a trek for your little ones. Visits here are ideally suited to families with some solid hiking experience, but just admiring the snowcapped peaks (along with Everest, many others rise more than 6,000 meters above sea level) and walking through the gorges and silver fir forests is an unforgettable experience. In the spring, the lower-lying areas of the park are a riot of color as rhododendrons and other wildflowers bloom in abundance.

? Box out: Animal Inhabitants

Bring powerful binoculars. Eagle-eyed visitors to the park may spot resident animals such as the Himalayan tahr, serow, wolves, and even Himalayan black bears. Harder to spot are the rare snow leopard, red panda and crimson-horned pheasants.

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Day 15-21 Pokhara and Annapurna Hiking (Via Kathmandu)

Via a return visit to Kathmandu, board the tourist bus (more comfortable, and a lot faster, than the local mini-buses, and an inexpensive option at around $7 USD) for Pokhara, Nepal’s second biggest city. Framed by jaw-dropping views of the Annapurna Range (a stretch of the Himalayas), the city is famous for the vast lake at its centre, and the city soon gives way to wild nature. Outdoorsy activities for families in Pokhara include boating, horse riding, trekking and – for those with a head for heights – paragliding. The most obvious outdoor attraction in Pokhara, however, is trekking around the magnificent surrounding countryside and drinking in the fresh air and the views. A good short hike is up to the Shanti stupa (temple) above the town, and reached by a boat across the lake followed by a wooded walk. More challenging is the route up to Sarangkot lookout point (this is where daredevil paragliders set off from, for birds eye views of city and mountains).

After spending a couple of days enjoying this low-key town and its family-friendly attractions, set out to explore the mountains. The Annapurna Circuit, and many more hiking opportunities, spread out from here, and offer ample opportunity to spend quality family time in the hills. Some treks are more challenging than others, and all involve (naturally) some hills, but it’s a richly-rewarding experience.

Older children and teens with some hiking experience (younger kids can be carried by porters) may relish the challenge of the 40-mile Poon Hill hike, which is spread out over several days and takes in peaks such as Annapurna I (over 26,000 ft/7,200m), and the enormous ‘holy mountain’ of Machhapuchhre, otherwise known as Fish Tail, which dominates the skyline.

Day 22-24 Kurintar

Regular buses make the 2-3 hour drive to Kurintar, a pretty riverside town famed for its white water rafting and its cable cars. Older children, teens and adults can spend a day enjoying some white knuckle thrills on the Trisuli River (instructors are on hand to show newbies the ropes). A couple of good accommodations here include a famous spa resort, with kid-pleasing playground, and the dizzying 20-minute cable car ride up to the Manakamana Temple (cable car fare approx $7) offers breathtaking birds’ eye views without taxing little legs. With the mountain views, fresh momos (Nepalese dumplings) and river fun, families in Kurintar may well want to linger here a few days.

Day 25-29 Chitwan

Prepare for some serious kiddie kudos as you head to one of Nepal’s biggest natural attractions – Chitwan National Park – a vast forested wetland whose inhabitants include tigers, rhinos, and crocodiles. Accommodation options here include eco lodges, safari camps or simple homestays – visitors to Chitwan with kids can pick their desired price range, and comfort level. The best way to reach here is by private transfer or bus – it’s a drive of around one hour, expect to pay around $10 USD for a private car ride.

A trip to Chitwan will likely be a highpoint of any nature-based family trip to Nepal, and visitors should set aside the best part of a week to make the most of it. Visitors can take self-guided treks, but given the wild beasties that live here, and not to mention the possibility of getting lost, it’s advisable to go with a guide (individual or group).

Active families in Chitwan can enjoy thrilling activities such as early morning riverboat rides and kayaking through jungle wetlands (keep little fingers inside the canoes – snapping crocodiles live here!), and can also take part in jeep safaris, keeping eyes peeled for the resident rhinos and elusive Bengal tigers. Birdwatching is another highlight of a trip to Chitwan National Park – make it fun for kids by making a list of the colorful birds that live here, and seeing who can tick the most off the list.

? Tip: Ethical Elephant Excursions
For ethical reasons, many visitors to Chitwan will choose to avoid the elephant back rides that are still easily available at the park. A more ethically-sound alternative is to arrange a stay at one of the cruelty-free camps such as TigerTops, where guests can stay as an honorary member of the chain-free elephant pack, helping with feeding and washing and taking strolls alongside the magnificent animals.

Day 30: Kathmandu

Tourist buses make the 5-7 hour ride back to Kathmandu (prepare for some hair-raisingly high and narrow passes as well as some breathtaking views. Once back in the big city, you might want to overnight (and sink a couple of nerve-saving drinks) before boarding your plane back home.