They say that the first person to come here was a yogi with his four wives. Or maybe forty, I am not so sure. Anyway, the feminine energy in that place is hard to ignore. that little village is doubtlessly surrounded by a powerful feminine vail.
And maybe that’s why I fell in love with it. After you leave noisy, smoke filled Manali, and take the rickshaw all the way up, to where there’s no vehicle entry, you can finally breath freely. The temple courtyard is the heart of the village welcomes you into a delightful mix of orange robed Babas, pampered Indian tourists and wild local kids.
It looks like beyond that there isn’t much to do here. Looks like. A million times I saw young backpackers asking each other ‘what, that’s everything?’ most only come here for half a day. A rare few stay a few nights. And we stayed here three months.
So the truth is there isn’t much to do here. But your day is made of such a high life quality, so rich, that it’s hard to leave.
The hot springs and the temple within are the reasons everyone comes here. And honestly, they’re they cultural, social, and spiritual heart of the village. Every day the women meet to wash, do laundry, gossip. It’s hard to describe the deep meaning that little washing rooms, that at first sight look lame, but when you take off the western glasses and loosen up a bit, you discover an amazingly fascinating world
We go in. hang the bag and take a towel, bucket and soaps. Take off our clothes (everything but the underpants) and hang them on the wall. We go slowly down the stairs, staying a bit on each step, let my body get used to the heat of the water. The girls are already in, just like the local girls that treat it like the community swimming pool.
My whole body in the water. I let my hair fall, soak all of me inside Sulphur smelling nature water. Ten nice, quiet, relaxing minutes. Afterwards I come out, sit on the edge of the pool with the other women, cooling down. The village women pull out the laundry soap and start rubbing the clothes on the floor. Laughing, soaping each other, scrubbing well. Rub their bodies in oil.
Afterwards I go in again. This time it’s easy to get used to the heat. Go out and move to the taps. Sit down on the floor, with the bucket and soaps, wash my hair, put a mask on my face. Just like a spa. Next to me is sitting a very old Indian woman. She doesn’t speak English but turn to me with a smile, soap in hand, and asks me to help her wash her back. Roni, my older daughter, sits next to her and washes her back. It feels like the most natural thing in the world.
By the way, those waters serve the village for almost everything. You can see them doing laundry in the taps outside the temple, washing dishes, clean their shoes. Sometimes they just fill a bucket or two and go back home.
The girls leave the washing rooms and enter the small temple. They already know everyone, they do Puja and get a Tika and a few sweets. Explain to the Indian tourists that they can’t take pictures, ring the bell and go help the guy that watches the shoes.
On full moon nights there are parties and dancing and they really enjoy it.
In Vashisht there are loads on guesthouses of all kinds and the prices are comfortable. There are nice restaurants, and we enjoy various cuisines. Sometimes Indian, sometimes Italian, sometimes Sushi :-).
There’s no entry for vehicles. It’s all small alleys the cows barely fit through, and lots of stairs. It’s very easy for me to allow the kids to wander alone, go visit friends, go to the court to play, or swim in the hot springs, it’s a very small village, everyone knows everyone and so everyone already knows them. They feel safe and enjoy meeting nice people almost every day. When Roni was doing a school project on Babas she simply walked in the street and asked her Baba friends all the questions she had.
In 10am the girls go to a laughing yoga lesson. Afterwards we sometimes go to the big waterfall (half an hour walk most of it in a magical forest), sometimes to the small waterfall, ten minutes’ walk in woods dotted with beautiful village houses. We dip in the cold water and sun bathe on the rocks.
After that me and the girls go the hot springs. It’s a daily ceremony we try not to miss.
In the three months we lived here we celebrated two weddings. One that took 5 days and another humbler one, only three days, three days and three nights of music and trumpets and plenty of food. Fireworks that light up the sky and dancing in the streets.
And also one funeral. All the shops were closed for a whole day and all the men in the village, old and young, suddenly became bold. We felt the mourning everywhere and that’s how we understood that this village may be a tourist destination like many others, but below the outer shell of guesthouses and Sushi bars, there is still a beautiful village authenticity in every sense of the word.
